Borsh la Kazakha

Borsh is one of the few dishes I crave, especially on a cold winter day nothing can replace the meatiness, richness, and comfort of this soup. While most people think borsh is a Russian dish, the origins of this soup come from Ukraine. There are endless variation of borsh: beef, pork, vegetarian, “green”, etc. This might not be the classical recipe, but this is a recipe I grew up with.

Ingredients:

Stock:

.5 pound of beef stew bones

1 large carrot cut in a half

1 large onion cut in a half

Olive oil

2 bay leaves

1 pound of fatty large cuts of beef

1 tsp whole peppercorns

Soup:

2 cups of shredded cabbage

¾ cup shredded red beet

1 bay leaf

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

½ cup shredded carrots

1 large red tomato chopped

3 cloves of garlic chopped

1 Tbsp tomato paste

1 tsp white wine vinegar

3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes cubed

Salt
Black pepper

1.     To make a stock, preheat the oven to 400F. Place bones, carrots, and onions in a large roasting pan. Pour over olive oil  so all ingredients are evenly covered with a thin layer of oil. Roast for 30 minutes turning the bones half way. The bones should be caramelized, but not fully charred.

2.     Remove the pot from the oven and pour 1 cup of water in the pan scraping the bottom to remove all of the brown pieces. Strain the mixture into a large stock pot reserving bones and vegetables. Place bones, carrot, onion, meat, peppercorns, and bay leave in the stock pot. Fill the pot with 8 cups of cold water, cover and simmer skimming off excess fat for at least 1 hour.

3.     Strain the broth discarding bones and reserving the meat. Cut the meat into smaller pieces about 1 inch each; set the meat aside.

4.     Return the broth into the pot adding cabbage, bay leaf, and 2 tsp of salt. Cover and bring to simmer. Cook for 5-7 minutes and add potatoes cubes.

5.     Preheat oil on a large skillet over medium heat. Add beets and carrots cooking the vegetables until they soften. Add garlic and cook for another minute before tossing in tomato, tomato paste, and 1 tsp of salt. Cook the mixture for 3-5 minutes until tomato juice evaporates. Add vinegar and let it evaporate. Turn the heat off.

6.     At this point potatoes should be already cooked. Turn the heat off, add vegetables from the skillet and meat. Let borsh cool a bit, then add salt and pepper to taste.

7.     Traditionally, borsh is topped with chopped dill and a heaping teaspoon of sour cream. Serve it with potato pirozhki (Russian empanadas pictured below) or good Russian rye. Borsh will taste even better the next day. Priyatnogo appetitaJ

Spaghetti and meatballs

As temperatures drop and sun begins to set earlier, I start craving more time at home. Rather than going out into the cold, the perfect Saturday afternoon is spent reading, maybe sipping a cup of tea or a glass of wine, and then slowly making our way to the kitchen to prepare dinner. During the week, dinners have to be quick and simple, suitable to be consumed between 9pm when I typically get home and 1am when I'm falling asleep.  On Saturdays, however, we have the luxury of time to prepare a meal that requires more than two steps, to let sauces simmer, to set a proper table and enjoy the process of cooking.

Spaghetti and meatballs make the perfect meal for a chilly Saturday. It is comforting, involved enough to require a couple of hours, but not too complicated, and makes plenty of leftovers for the week. I've tried many versions of meatballs and a recent favorite is adapted from Williams-Sonoma. These meatballs are savory with prosciutto and Parmesan, yet still feel light. It is important to work the meat gently, flipping it with the whole hand as you mix just until combined rather than mashing it with the fingers to achieve the perfectly uniform mix that would result in tough meatballs. As a side we has sauteed escarole, but broccoli rabe, kale, or even a green salad would all work.

Roman-style meatballs
Adapted from Williams-Sonoma

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups fresh bread crumbs or fresh bread torn into small bits, crusts removed
• 1/2 cup milk, any fat content will do
• 4 oz. finely chopped prosciutto 
• 1 lb. ground beef 
• 1 lb. ground pork 
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten 
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano 
• 6 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil, plus a bit more torn basil for serving 
• 5 garlic cloves, minced finely
• 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more, to taste  
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper, plus more, to taste 
• 5 Tbs. olive oil 
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 2 can (28 oz.) whole peeled tomatoes with juices, crushed with your hands 
• 1 lb dried spaghetti for serving

• Directions:

  In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs and milk and let stand for 10 minutes. 

  In a saucepan large enough to hold the 56 ounces of tomatoes and all the meatballs, over medium heat warm 3 Tbs. olive oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juices, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the sauce thickens, about 20 minutes. Stir in 3 Tbs. basil.
  
  In a large bowl, combine the prosciutto, ground beef, pork, eggs, cheese, parsley, oregano, the remaining 3 Tbs. of the basil, the remaining 3 of the minced garlic cloves, the 1 tsp. salt and the 1/2 tsp. pepper. Add the soaked bread crumbs and mix gently until combined. Divide the meat mixture into 1/4-cup portions and roll into balls slightly larger than golf-size. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
  
  In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining 2 Tbs. of the olive oil. Working in 2 batches, brown the meatballs on all sides, about 10 minutes per batch. I move the browned meatballs directly into the pan with the tomato sauce, but you can also hold on a plate until all meatballs are browned and then all them all together to the sauce.
  
  Simmer the meatballs in the sauce, turning occasionally and basting with the sauce, until cooked through, about 30 minutes. I tend to keep the sauce pan covered at this point. If the sauce is too watery as the meatballs finish cooking, then open the lid and simmer for another 10 minutes. 

  While the meatballs are cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add plenty of salt and cook the spaghetti a minute shy of the al dente time recommended on the package. Drain the spaghetti and return to the pot. Remove the cooked meatballs to a plate and keep warm on the back of the stove. Add the desired amount of sauce to the spaghetti and toss, over medium-low heat for a couple of minutes to allow some of the sauce to get absorbed into the noodles. Twist the spaghetti into warm bowls, top with meatballs, torn fresh basil, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese and serve immediately. Serves 4 - 6, with some meatballs left over.

Pulled Pork Sandwich

To spend a month abroad means eating out every day, not knowing where your food came from, who handled it, was the cook in a good mood that day or not. A whole month abroad also means shopping in foreign bazaars, smelling unknown spices, eating tropical fruit, and drafting new recipes. The idea for this dish came to me over a cup of Indonesian coffee with Dutch pastries.

During the colonization of the 19th century, the Dutch introduced classic European pastries to Indonesia. Since then, Indonesian cooks have been applying European baking techniques to local ingredients to make guava filled danish, avocado chocolate tort, and melon cheesecake. To make this pulled pork sandwich, I used a mix of Jamaican spices for the dry rub, mango for the BBQ sauce, and Smitten Kitchen light brioche buns. This dish should be served at the next European, Caribbean and South East Asian summit :)

Pulled pork

1 2-pound cured ham steak

½ tsp of the follow dry spices: pimento, ginger, red pepper, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, thyme, cumin, brown sugar
2 tbsp of salt
Mix the spices and salt. Rub the spice mix into the steak and refrigerate for 2 hours. Wash off the rub with cold water and pat dry the steak.

While the meat is marinating make the BBQ sauce.

BBQ sauce
4 large ripe red tomatoes
1 freshno pepper
1 medium size red onion
1 ripe yellow mango
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp white pepper
1 tbsp kosher salt

Preheat the grill to 400F.
Cut tomatoes in a half. Cut onions into thick rings. Place tomatoes (cut side down), onions, and peppers on the grill. Grill the vegetables until they are well charred. Lower the grill temperature

Using a blender or a food processor, puree vegetables with remaining ingredients into a smooth sauce. Adjust salt and pepper.

Lower the grill to 250F. Place the steak on the grill and cook for at least 2 hours. The internal temperature of the meat should be at least170F. Remove the meat from the grill. Let it cool.

Warm the BBQ sauce in a large skillet. Shred the meat or cut it into fine pieces. Mix the meat with the sauce letting it absorb the juices for at least 10 minutes.

Slice the bun in a half and stuff it with meat. Enjoy with few pickles, fries, and a good beer.

Summer risotto with zucchini and mushrooms

One of my favorite habits is bringing my own lunch.  It helps that I love leftovers.  Sometimes, it is a simple vegetable salad, like roasted beets and fennel, a bit of local mozzarella with a piece of bread from my favorite Orwashers bakery.  Other weeks, its leftovers from weekend cooking or something I prepared for the week on Sunday.  Almost always, it is better than anything I could buy in one of many "cafeterias" with salad and sushi bars right next to each other (does anybody else find it odd?).  Granted, there are many days when I don't bring lunch, but this week I'm looking forward to a lovely risotto with local zucchini, mushrooms, herbs, finished with freshly grated Parmesan.

Now, I know that we are all very busy and the idea of packing a lunch may seem overwhelming.  Not to channel Jamie Oliver, but I want food that helps me get through a very busy day.  So next Sunday, I urge you to hit the farmers' market (or your local grocer), pull out a skillet, dump some rice, sip on a summer white and stir yourself some lunch.  It is a 45 minute effort (think of it as 9 minutes per workday, which is faster than standing in line at Europa cafe) that will reward you every day of the week. 

Risotto with zucchini and mushrooms

1 large or 2 medium zucchini, rinsed and cut into 1/4 inch cubes

1 pound of cremini mushrooms, scrubbed and cut into 1/4 inch cubes

1 medium onion (I used the bulb and the greens of a mild spring onion), diced

3 cloves of garlic or 1 head of spring garlic, chopped

The leaves of 6 6 sprigs of thyme

1 sprig of rosemary or savory (I used dried savory from Keith's Farm)

6 - 8 cups of chicken stock, preferably homemade

1 cup of white wine (no need to be fancy, but use something you would drink)

2 cups of risotto rice, such as Arborio

3 tablespoons of olive oil

2 tablespoons of butter

1 cup of freshly grated Parmesan

8 sprigs of parsley, chopped

A dozen basil leaves, chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a medium pan, bring the chicken stock to the boil and then reduce the heat to a bare simmer.  Warm a large saute pan over medium-high heat with one tablespoon of olive oil.  Saute the zucchini, stirring occasionally and salting at the end, until yielding and slightly browned.  Move to a bowl.  Add another tablespoon of olive oil and cook the mushrooms over high heat, stirring once in a while until well-browned.  Do not disturb the mushrooms for the first 3 - 4 minutes in the pan.  They will release a lot of water and you want that water to evaporate so that the mushrooms can brown nicely.  Season the mushrooms with salt and pepper and move them to the bowl with zucchini.

Wipe or rinse the pan, then heat the remaining 1 tablespoons of olive oil with 1 tablespoon of butter over low-medium heat.  Add the onion, garlic, thyme, and rosemary or savory, and cook until softened and fragrant, but not browning.  Add the rice and stir for 2 -3 minutes to coat the rice with the fat in the pan.  Pour in the wine and stir until most of the wine is absorbed or evaporated.  Now add the hot stock, 1 ladle at a time, stirring frequently, until the rice is plump with a slightly chewy center and the "sauce"  leaves traces on the bottom of the pan.  You don't want rice soup but you also don't want rice pilaf.  Think of the desired texture as that of rice pudding, but with stock instead of milk.  This usually takes me at least 20 minutes.  Before you add the last ladleful, fold in the zucchini and the mushrooms.  Add the last of the stock and stir for a bit to let the flavors combine.  Turn off the heat and stir in Parmesan, the last tablespoon of butter, the parsley, the basil, and some pepper.  Taste and add more salt, if needed.  Serve immediately and garnish with more Parmesan, if you like to spoil yourself like that.  Pat yourself on the back for making a delicious and healthy lunch that is a lot better than a turkey club sandwich.  

Remembering Indonesia over a bowl of gado gado noodles

DC sunset from my window

About a month ago I was in Indonesia, where I met a group of wonderful Fulbright scholarship recipients, who are teaching English in Malaysia. We watched stunning Bali sunsets, ate at the night market, partied in a 5 floor nightclub, and spent hours at the pool...ah-h-h enjoying DC sunset and a bowl of udon gado gado, Indonesian raw salad, I want to thank people who have made my vacation in Bali truly unforgettable. 

This recipe is for you guys and for all Fulbright recipients, Peace Corps volunteer, students, and anyone who is searching for a delicious South East Asian recipe that can be easily prepared in a microwave.

Spicy peanut sauce (1 3/4 cup)
1/2 cup roasted peanuts or, if you don't have a food processor, 1/2 cup peanut butter
1 jalapeno, seeds and membrane removed
1 tsp shrimp paste
1 cup full fat coconut milk
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sesame seed oil
1inch ginger finely chopped
1 glove garlic crushed
1 generous pinch of salt
1 tbsp brown sugar/honey/agave 
Pulse all ingredients in a food processor until smooth

if you do not have a food processor

Place ginger, jalapeno,  and garlic on a chopping board, sprinkle sugar and salt on top. Press sugar and salt into the ingredients with a side of your knife until the mixture turns into a paste.
Mix the paste with the rest of the ingredients.

Noodles (serves 4)
1/2 cup string beans trimmed 
2 large carrots cut into 1" sticks
4 eggs
1 lb. udon or other long noodles
1 cup cabbage/ spinach shredded
4 scallion chopped 
1/2 cup bean sprouts

1/2 cup peeled cucumber cubed
1 lb tempeh/extra firm tofu cubed
pinch of salt
Fill a microwave safe bowl with hot water and 1 tbsp salt. Place beans, carrots, and eggs in the bowl. Cook on high for 5 minutes until vegetables are tender. Blanch vegetables in ice water leaving eggs in the bowl with hot water. Set vegetables aside.

Add noodles to the bowl. Cook on high for another 7 minutes or until the noodles are cooked through adding more water if needed. Remove eggs from the bowl. While eggs are cooling, strain the noodles. Toss hot noodles with cabbage/spinach, bean sprouts, scallions, and 1 cup of sauce. 

Peel and slice eggs. Top with vegetables, eggs, and tempeh/tofu. Poor the remaining sauce on top and enjoy.

Cook's Illustrated Pissaladière-Onion, Olive & Anchovy Tart

I was flipping through a pile of old Cook's Illustrated at my sister's. Among other reason that make Cook's Illustrated superior to other culinary publications is the fact that there is always a recipe that you want to make right away. Pissaladière was the one that I ran into. Pissaladière is a simple french staple that can be served for simple dinner, brunch, or a wine paring event. To me it feels that the dish should be accompanied by a vegetable or a green, which, in my case, was a bed of arugula with shaved Pecorino and thin slices of the celery root. Simply blanched green beans or lightly roasted carrots should also compliment the salty and buttery taste of Pissaladière well. A glass of local 2007 Syrah from Delaplane Cellars is was a great pairing. 

Dough

2 cups of bread flour and about 1/2 cup for rolling and shaping

1 teaspoon instant yeast

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 tablespoon olive oil and another 2 teaspoons of olive oil for brushing and shaping the dough

1/2 cup hot water mixed with 1/2 cup room temperature water

Mix all dry ingredients with oil. Pour in water in three batches mixing gently until the dough forms a ball.

With well floured hands transfer the dough into a floured board and knead for 3-5 minutes until the dough becomes smooth.

Oil a large bowl or a 32 ounce (minimum) tupperware. Place the dough in a bowl/tupperware, roll around once to cover all of the dough with oil, and cover with a plastic wrap/top. Let the dough rise in a draft free place for an hour or leave it overnight in a refrigerator.

Onions

2 tablespoons olive oil from anchovies

4 large Vidalia onions, diced into 1/2 inc pieces (4 cups)

1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt

1 teaspoon brandy/cognac

1 tablespoon water

Heat the oil on a medium heat in a non-stick or cast iron pan. 

Add onions and salt. Cook for 10 minutes until onions start to brown.

Add brandy/cognac and let the alcohol evaporate. Lower the heat, add water, and cook stirring every 5 minutes for another 20 minutes until onions become golden brown.



the steps of Delaplane Cellars http://www.delaplanecellars.com/

Toppings

1/2 cup black pitted olives, roughly chopped

8 anchovy fillets packed in oil, roughly chopped plus 9-10 additional anchovy fillets

thinly sliced green onions (optional)

Preheat the oven to 500F.

Once the dough doubles, with well oiled hands remove the from the container, and divide into 2 equal parts, leaving one in a container while you are shaping the other. 

Shape the dough by pulling and folding the edges of the dough ball in the center. Imagine you are folding chamomile petals.

Flip the dough seam side down and start stretching it by pressing and pulling it with a palm of one hand while holding the other end. Add flour if the dough sticks. Lay on a baking sheet or a pizza stone sprinkled with corn meal or lined with a parchment papper. Repeat with the second piece of dough.
Brush the dough with olive oil. 
Scatter onions, olives, chopped and anchovies. Layer anchovy fillets.
Bake until edges of the dough become golden brown about 15-17 minutes.
Cool and sprinkle with green onions.