My best tarte tatin

Tarte tatin is one of my favorite things to bake - I love the way in which simple ingredients (apples, butter, sugar) get transformed into a show-stopping desert via an ingenious technique. I bake tartes tatin all through the Fall and Winter and yes, have not felt like I perfect this technique...at least until now. This may not be impressive to professionals, it is probably not a big deal to many of you, but for me, this is my best tarte tatin.

To give credit where its due, I based this method on many wonderful sources of knowledge, including Smitten Kitchen, Food52, and The New York Times. I adjusted based on what made sense to me and what works in my kitchen. The big takeaways are:

• Slice the apples crosswise (as if along the apple's equator) to create a flat, stable base
• Do not skimp on the salt
• A cast iron skillet is the best baking dish in this case as it helps prevent burning and still facilitates good browning
• Do not cover the baked tarte until it is fully cooled so that the crust stays crisp (trust me, you want this)

Ingredients and method for pie crust:

• 1 stick (8 tablespoons) of butter, well-chilled and cut into small-ish pieces. I like to cut a stick of butter from the fridge on a plate and then stick the plate into the freezer while I pull together the rest of the ingredients
• 1 and 1/4 cups of all-purpose flour. You can actually substitute up to a third of this with white whole-wheat flour
• 1 teaspoon of salt
• 1 tablespoon of sugar
• 1/4 cup of sour cream or yogurt (I saw no observable difference in the result)
• 1 tablespoon of lemon juice (about 1/4 of a juicy lemon)
• 1/4 cup of ice water  

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, salt, and sugar. Add the chunks of butter and with a pastry cutter, work the butter into the flour until the butter is well-distributed and is about the size of a chickpeas. Add the sour cream and the lemon juice (I often whisk them together first) and stir quickly with a fork. Drizzle in the ice water (without the ice) bit by bit, stirring with a fork until the dough starts to come together in larger clumps. Take the clumps out of the bowl and on to a lightly-floured surface and continue dribbling in the water until most of the dough comes together. Dump whatever is left in the bowl with the rest of it and quickly pat the dough together. Don't worry, it won't be smooth or even stick together perfectly. Pat the dough into a circle about 1-inch thick, wrap in plastic, and let it chill in the back for the fridge for 30 - 45 minutes. When you take it out, you'll notice the dough is much more together now. On the surface that's already dirty with flour (why bother cleaning it up in between), roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/4-inch thick. Dust lightly with flour as needed. Fold into thirds lengthwise and then thirds across and roll into a rectangle again. Fold again, wrap in plastic and put back in the fridge for another 30 - 45 minutes.

Ingredients and method for the apples and assembling the tarte

• 4 large firm apples, such as Mutsu or Granny Smith
• 1/2 cup of sugar, divided
• 6 tablespoons of butter
• 1 teaspoon of fine sea salt
• 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon of lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 400F. Peel the apples and cut them in half crosswise (along the "equator"). Cut each half into quarters and remove the bits of the core. Toss the apple chunks with the lemon juice, cinnamon, and 1/4 cup of sugar. While you work on the apples, melt the butter and 1/4 cup of sugar in a 10-inch  cast iron skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar starts to turn light brown on the edges. Reduce the heat to low and start setting the apples in the caramel, putting them very snugly against each other. Cook over low heat for another 5 minutes. As the apples cook, then will start shrinking a bit and you should be able to wedge in a few more apple pieces. This will help make sure your tarte doesn't have any sad, apple-free spots.

While the apples cook, roll out the dough into a circle about 11 inches in diameter. Drape the dough over the apples and tuck in the edges all around them (careful, the pan is hot and so is the apple caramel!). Slide the skillet into the oven and bake for 30 - 45 minutes until the crust is well-browned and the apples are soft. I like to slide a small knife or a cake tester into the apples just to make sure. 

Take the baked tarte out of oven and let cook for 10 minutes or so. Place a serving plate over the skillet, wrap a thick towel around it, and carefully invert. Behold the beauty of your work! Let the tarte cool and serve with ice cream or creme fraiche.

Challah with Fig Filling /Домашние Булочки Хала Инжирной Начинкой

This challah recipe developed by the Smitten Kitchen, stands out for its subtle sweet flavor, which comes from the dried fig filling and the ease with which it can be made. In her cookbook, Smitten Kitchen offers only one way of braiding this bread, but if you don’t plan to share this with your hungry office mates as I did, feel free to make smaller buns simply by twisting the bread into a knot.

The recipe in English is available at http://smittenkitchen.com/blog/2012/09/fig-olive-oil-and-sea-salt-challah-book-tour/

Этот рецепт халы от Smitten Kitchen, выделяется своим тонким сладким ароматом и вкусной начинкой из высушенного инжира. В своей книге, автор этого рецепта описывает только один способ плетения халы, но сделала несколько разных форм. Булочки поменьше скрученные в узлы достались мне, а хлеб в форме косы моим коллегам.

Хлеб

7 грамм сухих дрожжей

85 грамм плюс 1 чайная ложка меда

80 мл оливкового масла , плюс больше для чашки

2 больших яйца

2 чайные ложки крупной морской соли или 1 1/2 чайной ложки столовой соли

4 чашки ( 500 г ) муки

Начинка

155 грамм крупно порезанного сушеного инжира или фиников

1/8 чайной ложки апельсиновой цедры

60 мл апельсинового сока

1/8 чайной ложки морской соли

Молотый черный перец

Помадка

1 большое яйцо

Крупная морская соль

В большой чашке, смешайте 180 мл теплой воды и мед. Посыпьте дрожжи сверху. Через 5 минут масса на поверхности должна образоваться пенка, если этого не произошло значит дрожжи не актины и продеться повторит этот шаг.

После, добавить соль и муку. Смешайте все вместе деревянной ложкой , пока тесто не начнет формироваться. Выложите тесто на посыпанную мукой поверхность и месите в течение 5 до 10 минут, до того как тесто не станет однородным и эластичным.

Смажьте туже большую чашки оливковым маслом, и поместите в нее тесто миску. Накройте чашки пищевой пленкой, и оставить на 1 час, или до тех пор пока тесто не увеличится в два раза.

Тем временем, сделайте начинку: В небольшой кастрюле смешайте инжир, цедру, 1/2 стакана воды, сок, соль, и щепотку черного перца. Доведите смесь до кипения на среднем огне и варите, помешивая, пока инжир станет мягким, около 10 минут. Добавьте соль и перец по вкусу. Снимите с огня и дайте остыть. Теплую начинку переложите в кухонный комбайн или блендер. Смешивайте пока начинка на приобретет консистенцию густого варенья.

После того как тесто поднимется, выложите его на посыпанную мукой поверхность и разделите его пополам. Раскатайте первую половину теста в широкий прямоугольник. Распределите половину начинки равномерно на тесто, не доходя до краев. Начиная с самой дальней стороны, закатайте тесто в тугую колбаску пряча начинку внутри. Затем аккуратно растяните тесто раскатывая его двумя ладошками в длинную веревку около 1 метра. Соберите тесто в кольцо и повторить с оставшимися тестом и начинкой.

Для индивидуальных маленьких булочек разделите каждый кусок теста на 4 части и завяжите каждый кусочек в узел.

Для булочки в форме косы разделите каждый кусок теста на две части и следуйте вот этим инструкциям:

Перенесите хлеб на противень смазанной маслом или покрытый пергаментной бумагой или силиконовый коврик для выпечки. Взбейте яйцо с солью и нанесите помадку с помощью кулинарной кисточки. Дайте хлебу подниматься еще 1 час. За 15 минут до готовности разогрейте духовку до 200 градусов.

Еще раз смажьте хлеб помадкой и посыпать морской солью. Выпекайте в центре духовки в течение 35-40 минут до образования бронзовой корочки. Если ваш хлеб корочка начнет темнеть слишком быстро, накройте хлеб фольгой для оставшегося времени выпечки . Самый лучший способ для проверки степени готовности это термометр – центр буханки должен достичь 90 градусов.

Gazpacho - Spanish answer to Russian Okroshka / Газпачо − испанский ответ окрошке.

Впервые я попробовала томатный суп в Турции, где многие рестораны и близкие к сердцу выходцев из Советского Союза all inclusive отели предлагают немного острый и наваристый томатный суп−пюре. Традиционно этот суп подается горячим с добавлением небольшого количества красной либо оранжевой чечевицы что придает делает его особенно наваристым. Насколько бы я не любила турецкий вариант томатного супа, сама идея горячего супа в июльскую жару Вашингтона не привлекала. Но все мне хотелось холодного супа, который не  только охлаждает в летнее пекло, но и имеет богатый вкус полон специями. 

 

Газпачо был идеальным решением проблемы. Особенно данный рецепт более популярный в Испанской Андалузии использует такие же специи что и его турецкого кузена. На фотографиях, этот суп подан

 

Рецепт рассчитан на 4 человека.

 

Ингредиенты:

1.5 кг. спелых помидоров

1 небольшой огурец (около 250 гр. )

1 небольшой красный лук (около 200 гр.)

1 небольшой красный болгарский перец (около 200 гр.)

2 головки чеснока

½ чайная ложка черного переца

1 ½ чайные ложки соли

2 кусочка белого (французского или итальянского, например, багет или чабата) хлеба (около 60 гр.)

1 стакан молодого оливкового масла (250 гр.)

2 столовые ложки уксуса шерри

2 столовые ложки мелко нарезанного молодого зеленого лука или зелени чеснока

 

В большой чашке перемешайте овощи порезанные на небольшие кусочки около ½ сантиметра, мелко порубленный чеснок, соль, и перец. Позвольте овощам отпустить сок в течение следующих 30 минут пока вы смотрите очередной эпизод любимого шоу.

 

30 минут спустя, переложите овощи на противень оставляя как можно больше сока в чашке. Поставьте противень в морозильник на 30 минут и положите кусочки хлеба с чашку с овощным соком.

 

 Через пол часа, переложите замороженные овощи в чашку, используя ручной блендер размельчите все овощи постепенно добавляя масло и уксус. Процедите суп через сито используя обратную сторону ложки для того что бы изъять наибольшее количество сока из овощей. Добавьте соль и перец по−вкусу.

 

Подавайте к столу с мелко нарезанным зеленным луком и оливковым маслом.

 

 

Whether in Kazakhstan or in DC, summers are quite brutal. When the temperature lingers in the 90s all day and night, cold soups are fantastic meals. Back home, the only cold soup I ate growing up was a kefir or yogurt based soup mixes with seasonal vegetables such as cucumbers, green onions, and bell peppers. In contract to the creamy okroshka, I find gazpacho more refreshing and flavorful. There are tons of different variations for this Spanish soup, but this Andalusian version is so far my favorite.

Recipe for 4 main courses
 

Ingredients

3 pounds (about 4 large) very ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into rough 1-inch chunks

1/2 pound (about 1 small) cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch chunks

1/3 pound (about 1 small) small red onion, peeled and cut into rough 1-inch chunks

1/3 pound (about 1 medium) green or red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into rough 1-inch chunks

2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

4 ounces (about 2 slices) white sandwich, French, or Italian bread, crusts removed, torn into rough 1-inch pieces (see note)

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, plus more for serving

2 tablespoons finely minced chives

Freshly ground black pepper

Procedures

Combine tomatoes, cucumber, onion, pepper, garlic, and salt in a large bowl and toss to coat thoroughly. Let vegetables sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Drain juices into a large bowl and add the bread. Transfer the drained vegetables to a baking sheet and place in freezer until vegetables are frozen, about 30 minute.

Remove vegetables from freezer until mostly thawed, about 30 minutes. Transfer vegetables and all their juices from the pan to bowl with soaked bread.

Using a hand blender, puree vegetables drizzling olive oil and sherry vinegar. Strain soup through a fine mesh strainer into a large bowl pressing all of the juices out. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve, drizzling each bowl with olive oil and chives.

This can be serves with pan seared scallops as shown in the picture for a nice temperature and flavor contrast.

 

Summer lunch - my version of ratatouille

In New York we are quickly approaching that glorious part of summer when everything is local and everything is wonderful! Farmers' market stands are filling up with field tomatoes, and let's admit it, they just taste so much better than their hot-house cousins. There are now all manner of summer squash, all kinds of eggplant, peppers of all sizes and ranges from green to red, and incredibly fragrant basil. I stopped by the market on a recent rainy Thursday morning and came home laden with goodies. When Michael ask how I thought we'd possible eat all of this food, I had just one answer - ratatouille!

Ratatouille is one of my favorite foods and it is a delicious way to showcase all that summer produce. I don't like frying the vegetables or fussing around with complicated layering, but still crave that deep integrated flavor of vegetables that have been cooking together for a while. In this version that is my favorite so far I combined roasting the vegetables with cooking them in a sauce in the stovetop, making this relatively quick and not messy. I also added a generous drizzle of balsamic vinegar at the end, which is not traditional but really helps the dish shine. I find ratatouille tastes best at room temperature and keep well for a few days worth of lunch. Today I ate it with good local mozzarella and a whole-wheat focaccia the recipe for which I'll post in a few days.

Ratatouille

1 lb eggplant, halved and cut across into 1/2 inch wide pieces - I like to use smaller varieties or baby eggplants that are not bitter

1 lb zucchini, halved and cut across into 1/2 inch wide pieces

1/2 lb sweet peppers, halved, seeds removed and sliced across into 1/4 inch wide pieces

1/2 fennel bulb, sliced thinly across

1/2 lb tomatoes, such as Roma, cored and chopped

1 large onion, halved and sliced thinly across

3 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

Herbs - 4 thyme sprigs, 2 oregano sprigs, a bit of rosemary, leaves taken off stems and chopped - feel free to pick and choose here

1 cup basil sliced thinly

1/2 olive oil, divided

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar or to taste

Salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heat the oven to 450F, arrange racks in the top and lower thirds of the oven,  and have two larger rimmed baking sheets ready and oil lightly. Put eggplant in 1 layer on 1 half of the first sheet and the peppers on the other half, toss vegetables with a bit more oil and sprinkle with salt. Slide the sheet into the oven and let it get a head start on the other vegetables. Meanwhile, arrange the zucchini and fennel on the other sheet, oil a bit more and sprinkle with salt. Roast the vegetables until they start to brown but are not too soft. You will continue cooking them together on the stove top.

While the vegetables are roasting, get out a large deep pan and warm a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in it. Cook the onion over medium heat until it starts to brown, add garlic and the herbs except for basil and let cook for a couple more minutes. Add the tomatoes and some salt, stir, and let cook over low-medium heat uncovered until tomatoes start break down.

By now, the vegetables should be nearly done. Take out the eggplant and pepper tray and scrape the vegetables into the pan with tomato/onion mixture. Cover and let cook for 5 minutes over low heat. Take out the second tray and scrape zucchini and fennel into the pot. Cover and let cook for another 5 minutes. Over medium heat, add more salt if needed and up to 1/4 cup of balsamic vinegar. Stir a couple of times and let cook for a few minutes longer until the juices with vinegar thicken. Turn off the heat, stir in sliced basil and let cool for a bit until ready to serve. This can serve up to 6 people as a side dish or 1 me for a couple of days.

Vegan (!!!) mushroom mini quiche

Dear friends!

I have missed you. I didn't realize that some of you actually read the blog and actually noticed that it hasn't been updated in nearly a year. I have missed thinking about food that would be fun to share, writing new ideas for you and for myself, and just the joy of sharing food far beyond the dinner table.

I had some lovely friends over for brunch on Sunday and one of the dishes everyone loves are these crustless mini quiche. They are loaded with sweet caramelized onions, rich mushrooms, herbs and spices and are absolutely delicious. The surprise is that they contain no eggs and no dairy and instead rely on silken tofu. I adapted multiple recipes and it is certainly open to more interpretations, like adding different spices, sauteed spinach (squeezed of excess liquid) or zucchini, pieces of steamed asparagus would all be welcome.

Tofu mushroom mini quiche
1 large yellow onion, peeled, halved and thinly sliced across
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 pound of crimini mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed, and caps sliced
1/2 pound of shiitake mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed, and caps sliced
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 sprigs of thyme and 1 sprig of rosemary, finely minced
1 package (12.3oz) of extra-firm silken tofu (I used Morinaga brand)
1/4 cup unsweetened soy milk
1 teaspoon corn starch or potato starch
Salt and pepper to taste, but do season generously
Chopped parsley and/or thinly sliced scallions optional

Heat 2 tablespoon of olive oil in a medium skillet (do not use non-stick) over medium-high heat and add the onions. Stir occasionally until onions start to brown. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring more frequently to prevent burning until onions are copper brown and their smells becomes sweet. Add 1/2 teaspoon paprika and Aleppo pepper and cook for another minute. If the onions are burning, turn down the heat and add another splash of olive oil. Once onions are caramelized, season them with a bit of salt and pepper and remove from the skillet.

Rinse and dry the skillet and heat another tablespoon of olive oil over high heat. Add mushrooms in one layer and do not overcrowd them. Saute mushrooms, turning occasionally, until nicely brown. Add thyme and rosemary while cooking mushrooms. You may need to do this in batches, because cooking too many mushrooms at the same time can make them steam instead of sear. Season cooked mushrooms with a bit of salt and pepper. Combine mushrooms with onions in a medium bowl. This step can be done up to 2 days in advance and the mixture should be refrigerated.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and spray a 12-cup muffin tin with cooking spray. I like Trader Joe's olive oil spray, but you can also brush the cups lightly with olive oil.

In a blender or a food processor combine tofu, soy milk, remaining 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 1/4 teaspoon salt, pepper, and corn starch. Blend on high for 2-3 minutes until well mixed. Add to mushroom-onion mixture, add parsley and scallions if desired, and thoroughly combine. Spoon heaping tablespoons of quiche mixture into muffin cups. You'll have 10 - 12 quiche. Bake for 20 - 25 minutes until set and light brown, then cool for 10-15 minutes. Gently ease the quiche out of the muffin tin using a thin knife or spatula (they are a little delicate) and serve warm.

Borsh la Kazakha

Borsh is one of the few dishes I crave, especially on a cold winter day nothing can replace the meatiness, richness, and comfort of this soup. While most people think borsh is a Russian dish, the origins of this soup come from Ukraine. There are endless variation of borsh: beef, pork, vegetarian, “green”, etc. This might not be the classical recipe, but this is a recipe I grew up with.

Ingredients:

Stock:

.5 pound of beef stew bones

1 large carrot cut in a half

1 large onion cut in a half

Olive oil

2 bay leaves

1 pound of fatty large cuts of beef

1 tsp whole peppercorns

Soup:

2 cups of shredded cabbage

¾ cup shredded red beet

1 bay leaf

1 Tbsp vegetable oil

½ cup shredded carrots

1 large red tomato chopped

3 cloves of garlic chopped

1 Tbsp tomato paste

1 tsp white wine vinegar

3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes cubed

Salt
Black pepper

1.     To make a stock, preheat the oven to 400F. Place bones, carrots, and onions in a large roasting pan. Pour over olive oil  so all ingredients are evenly covered with a thin layer of oil. Roast for 30 minutes turning the bones half way. The bones should be caramelized, but not fully charred.

2.     Remove the pot from the oven and pour 1 cup of water in the pan scraping the bottom to remove all of the brown pieces. Strain the mixture into a large stock pot reserving bones and vegetables. Place bones, carrot, onion, meat, peppercorns, and bay leave in the stock pot. Fill the pot with 8 cups of cold water, cover and simmer skimming off excess fat for at least 1 hour.

3.     Strain the broth discarding bones and reserving the meat. Cut the meat into smaller pieces about 1 inch each; set the meat aside.

4.     Return the broth into the pot adding cabbage, bay leaf, and 2 tsp of salt. Cover and bring to simmer. Cook for 5-7 minutes and add potatoes cubes.

5.     Preheat oil on a large skillet over medium heat. Add beets and carrots cooking the vegetables until they soften. Add garlic and cook for another minute before tossing in tomato, tomato paste, and 1 tsp of salt. Cook the mixture for 3-5 minutes until tomato juice evaporates. Add vinegar and let it evaporate. Turn the heat off.

6.     At this point potatoes should be already cooked. Turn the heat off, add vegetables from the skillet and meat. Let borsh cool a bit, then add salt and pepper to taste.

7.     Traditionally, borsh is topped with chopped dill and a heaping teaspoon of sour cream. Serve it with potato pirozhki (Russian empanadas pictured below) or good Russian rye. Borsh will taste even better the next day. Priyatnogo appetitaJ

Spaghetti Amatriciana

Some of you may know that magic happens when tomatoes are left to simmer with some good fat. It also seems clear that Italians really figured out this magic. This is evidenced by the Marcella Hazan's brilliant tomato-butter sauce and, as we discovered last weekend, by Amatriciana. Amatriciana uses the simplest of ingredients - pork fat from guanciale, good tomatoes, a slip of onion, maybe a bit of grated hard cheese, and transforms them into a rich, deeply satisfying, and savory sauce that we could not stop eating.
This version is adapted from the Silver Spoon cookbook, known as the Bible of Italian cooking. I know I am probably committing some sort of grave food sin by "adapting" the book's recipe, but we loved our version. Instead of guanciale, we used local jowl bacon, which gave our all'Amatriciana a touch of smokiness. I didn't have a fresh Fresno chile or red chile flakes, so we tossed in some Aleppo pepper. We added a single minced garlic clove. We used good canned tomatoes instead of fresh. Then we let is all simmer, while we enjoyed each other's company, snacked on salty cheese and honey (tip: Manchego + honey + bubbly = brilliant snack!), and had our patience abundantly rewarded. So go, make it next time you have an hour to kick around the house. I know that from here on I will be sure to keep jowl bacon in the freezer and canned tomatoes in the pantry, to make sure we have have Amatriciana any time we want.

Spaghetti Amatriciana
Adapted from the Silver Spoon cookbook
Recipe says it serves 4, but the two of us finished it, although we were very hungry

Generous 1/2 cup jowl bacon, guanciale, or pancetta, finely diced. This is easier if the meat is slightly frozen
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
28-oz can of whole peeled tomatoes, torn into small pieces or ground peeled tomatoes (good brand is recommended; we used Muir Glen)
1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper or red chile flakes
3/4-pound spaghetti
Salt and pepper to taste

In a large deep frying pan gently cook the bacon over low heat to render out the fat and crisp the bacon, which should take about 10 minutes. I like to start with a cold pan. This takes longer, but more of the fat runs out. You can also cover the pan with the lid to prevent the bacon pieces from burning. Add the onion and garlic, increase the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally for another 10 - 15 minutes until the onions are soft and lightly browned. Stir in tomatoes and Aleppo pepper, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook for at least 40 minutes. Add a splash of water if the sauce starts to thicken too much or crack the lid open if it is too watery. We like a slightly thicker sauce, which will get diluted a bit with the water clinging to the cooked spaghetti. Taste the finished sauce for salt and add a bit of salt and pepper, if needed. About 30 minutes before dinner, boil a large pot of water. Salt the boiling water well and cook the spaghetti until al dente. Transfer the spaghetti to the pan with the sauce and toss over medium heat for 2 - 3 minutes so that the pasta can absorb some of the sauce. I find the step really important in this dish. Serve with a bit of grated Parmesan, if desired.

Pear galette with pear-caramel ice cream

Hello! Well, it has certainly been a while, hasn't it. Honestly, we have no exciting excuses for absence. Its not that we've been jetting off to exotic locales, although there was an afternoon in Istanbul and a quick stop by Bishkek between the two of us. We've been busy. While that does not mean we eat badly, it does mean that we eat late, which makes for terrible, terrible pictures. Personally, I (Madina), also get very cranky when hungry, so the last thing I want to do is to have to take a picture to share. But this ends now. I am resolved to not let hungry impatience get the best of me and to do a much better job with actually sharing our cooking efforts.

Ok, now that the apology is out of the way, let's get to the real reason we are all here - the eats. I was craving caramel ice cream last week, which led me to finding the perfect recipe in David Lebovitz's delightful book . It combines pears and caramel, delivering a bit of bitterness and a tiny bit of pear texture, which I happen to love. It was delicious, but not pear-y enough for me.

The search for a more pronounced pear flavor had me explore poached pears, but instead I decided to bake a galette. Simple, rich, and flaky dough borrowed from Smitten Kitchen surrounded the pears, which tasted like better version of themselves, cooked in rich juices and enhanced with cinnamon and lemon. The galette delivered the pear punch I wanted and was perfect with the caramel ice cream. Bonus tip - a bit of Cognac is really excellent with this desert. I wonder if this combination makes me sound like a Victorian maid? Maybe the Forsyte Saga is having its influence.

Pear-Caramel Ice Cream
Barely adapted from David Lebovitz. His recipe is perfect; I just added a bit more salt.

3 medium ripe pears, peeled and cored. I used Bartlett
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of sugar
2 cups heavy cream
1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt. Add 1/4 teaspoon if you want the salty caramel flavor
A few drops freshly squeezed lemon juice

Dice the pears into small, even pieces.
Spread the sugar in a large, nonreactive saucepan and cook over medium heat, keeping a close eye on it. When the sugar begins to liquify and darken around the edges, gently stir it with a spatula towards the center. You will find that the edges will caramelize quicker than the center, so stirring helps keep the process even.
Once the sugar is deep amber, add in the pear pieces. Give the whole thing a stir. Do not worry if some of the caramel seizes and hardens; it will melt again soon enough. Cook over medium heat for 10 - 15 minutes until the pears are very soft and can be mashed with the back of a spoon.
Remove the pot from heat and stir in 1/2 cup of heavy cream, then add the rest of the cream, the salt, and the lemon juice. Stir well.
Let cook to room temperature. Transfer the mixture to a blender or a food processor and puree until smooth. I found that the mixture is too liquid for an immersion blender and makes a bit of a mess of one's stovetop. The original recipe calls for straining the pureed mixture, but I did not bother. I like the texture from the tiny bits of pear still floating around.
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then churn per your ice cream maker instructions. Serve in generous scoops over warm pear galette or on its own.

Pear Galette
Dough adapted from Smitten Kitchen

For the dough:
1 stick unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces about 1/4 inch each
1 1/4 cup All-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup sour cream, yogurt, or creme fraiche
2 teaspoons lemon juice, from about 1/4 lemon
1/4 - 1/3 cup ice water

In a medium bowl, cut the butter, sugar, and flour together with a pastry cutter, 2 table knives, or your fingers until butter is coated with flour and is in bits the size of peas. Mix the sour cream, lemon juice, and 1/4 cup ice water and drizzle the mixture onto the flour, all the while mixing with a fork. Remove large clumps of dough onto a lightly floured table surface. Add ice water, a teaspoon at a time to the remaining flour in the bowl until it holds together when squeezed in your hand. The dough should be more dry than wet. Dump the bowl content onto the table and knead it all together, until it comes into a somewhat cohesive ball. Flatten with the palm of your hand (this will make rolling easier later), wrap in plastic and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour, but ideally overnight. You can also double this recipe, using 1 half for the pear galette and freezing the other for another day you crave flaky richness.

For the filling:
4 medium-large Bosc pears, peeled and cored. I find that Bosc pears keep their shape well during baking
1 tablespoon lemon juice, from about 1/3 lemon
Zest of 1/2 lemon
2 - 3 tablespoons sugar, depending on the sweetness of your pears
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar for sprinkling, optional but really nice

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees, set the rack in the middle, line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicon pad.
Cut the pears in half and the slice each half, lengthwise into 8 - 10 slices. Mix the remaining ingredients in a medium bowl. Gently toss the slices pears with the lemon/sugar/cinnamon mixture and let stand while you roll out the dough.
Take the dough out of the refrigerator and roll out, on a well-floured surface until about 12 inches in diameter. Put the dough in the middle of the baking sheet. Mound the filling in the middle of the dough, leaving about a 2-inch border. Fold the border over the filling decoratively, if you would like and sprinkle the border with turbinado sugar. Slide the baking sheet into the hot oven and bake 35 - 45 minutes, until the juices are bubbling and the galette is nicely browned. Let cool to room temperature before serving.

Spaghetti and meatballs

As temperatures drop and sun begins to set earlier, I start craving more time at home. Rather than going out into the cold, the perfect Saturday afternoon is spent reading, maybe sipping a cup of tea or a glass of wine, and then slowly making our way to the kitchen to prepare dinner. During the week, dinners have to be quick and simple, suitable to be consumed between 9pm when I typically get home and 1am when I'm falling asleep.  On Saturdays, however, we have the luxury of time to prepare a meal that requires more than two steps, to let sauces simmer, to set a proper table and enjoy the process of cooking.

Spaghetti and meatballs make the perfect meal for a chilly Saturday. It is comforting, involved enough to require a couple of hours, but not too complicated, and makes plenty of leftovers for the week. I've tried many versions of meatballs and a recent favorite is adapted from Williams-Sonoma. These meatballs are savory with prosciutto and Parmesan, yet still feel light. It is important to work the meat gently, flipping it with the whole hand as you mix just until combined rather than mashing it with the fingers to achieve the perfectly uniform mix that would result in tough meatballs. As a side we has sauteed escarole, but broccoli rabe, kale, or even a green salad would all work.

Roman-style meatballs
Adapted from Williams-Sonoma

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 cups fresh bread crumbs or fresh bread torn into small bits, crusts removed
• 1/2 cup milk, any fat content will do
• 4 oz. finely chopped prosciutto 
• 1 lb. ground beef 
• 1 lb. ground pork 
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten 
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 
• 2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 
• 2 tsp. finely chopped fresh oregano 
• 6 Tbs. finely chopped fresh basil, plus a bit more torn basil for serving 
• 5 garlic cloves, minced finely
• 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more, to taste  
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper, plus more, to taste 
• 5 Tbs. olive oil 
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 2 can (28 oz.) whole peeled tomatoes with juices, crushed with your hands 
• 1 lb dried spaghetti for serving

• Directions:

  In a small bowl, combine the bread crumbs and milk and let stand for 10 minutes. 

  In a saucepan large enough to hold the 56 ounces of tomatoes and all the meatballs, over medium heat warm 3 Tbs. olive oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and their juices, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the sauce thickens, about 20 minutes. Stir in 3 Tbs. basil.
  
  In a large bowl, combine the prosciutto, ground beef, pork, eggs, cheese, parsley, oregano, the remaining 3 Tbs. of the basil, the remaining 3 of the minced garlic cloves, the 1 tsp. salt and the 1/2 tsp. pepper. Add the soaked bread crumbs and mix gently until combined. Divide the meat mixture into 1/4-cup portions and roll into balls slightly larger than golf-size. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
  
  In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining 2 Tbs. of the olive oil. Working in 2 batches, brown the meatballs on all sides, about 10 minutes per batch. I move the browned meatballs directly into the pan with the tomato sauce, but you can also hold on a plate until all meatballs are browned and then all them all together to the sauce.
  
  Simmer the meatballs in the sauce, turning occasionally and basting with the sauce, until cooked through, about 30 minutes. I tend to keep the sauce pan covered at this point. If the sauce is too watery as the meatballs finish cooking, then open the lid and simmer for another 10 minutes. 

  While the meatballs are cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add plenty of salt and cook the spaghetti a minute shy of the al dente time recommended on the package. Drain the spaghetti and return to the pot. Remove the cooked meatballs to a plate and keep warm on the back of the stove. Add the desired amount of sauce to the spaghetti and toss, over medium-low heat for a couple of minutes to allow some of the sauce to get absorbed into the noodles. Twist the spaghetti into warm bowls, top with meatballs, torn fresh basil, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese and serve immediately. Serves 4 - 6, with some meatballs left over.